The 1860s were one of the most significant periods in fashion history, both in terms of womens and mens wear. With the turn of the decade, the fashion industry was experiencing radical movements based on political, social and cultural developments. With their legendary crinoline skirts and the fine tailoring of male attire, the fashion of the 1860s expressed the need to express oneself, be elegant and sophisticated. This paper is going to examine the most important trends and developments in 1860s fashion and shed some light on how this era influenced the fashion industry and established the foundation of future fashion.
The emergence of Womens Fashion: Crinolines and Corsets.
The years of the 1860s were a period of a drastic shift in the fashion design of females as the crinoline became the icon of those times. The crinoline was a large petticoat of horsehair or steel, in order to sustain the bell-shaped skirts which were so much the fashion. By the end of the decade, these skirts were further exaggerated as women wanted more oversized and elaborate skirts. The influence of the crinoline on the fashion of the 1860s was immense because not only it determine the silhouette but also formed the culture of femininity and luxury.
Corsets were tight-laced under the voluminous skirts of which women were never weary in the 1860s. These corsets, which were usually composed of whalebone or steel, moulded the figure into a desirable hourglass shape. Though these clothes were not comfortable, they were seen as a necessity to attain the perfect feminine body of the day. Corsetry played a leading role in the fashion among women, and it was a statement of status, beauty, and social requirements.
Mens Fashion: Custom-made Suits and official Wears.
As womens fashion in the 1860s assumed a more dramatic shape with crinolines and petticoats, the fashion of men was more concerned with elegance and refinement through the tailored suits. A decade that marked the fashion of men in the 1860s was the three-piece suit which had a waistcoat, jacket and trousers which is still in fashion today. Such attention to detail in tailoring with its focus on fit and proportion became a characteristic of the time. Velvet and wool were fashionable, as they were rather rich fabrics and could assume a structured shape.
Besides the three-piece suit, men started adopting top hats which were now a very necessary demand during this era. These hats were the sign of status and genteel taste. The fashion of men in the 1860s showed the rise of personal presentation and was more formal and structured than in the previous decades.
The power of Queen Victoria and the Fashion trend.
Queen Victoria was one of the most significant players in 1860s fashion, and her reign was the birth of the Victorian fashion style. Trends of Queen Victoria in the field of modesty and grace influenced trends in Europe and America. Her wedding dress was a white silk satin and this became a trend of white wedding dress, which would prevail in the coming decades.
Femininity, virtue, and propriety, which were Victorian ideals, shaped both the mens and womens fashion. In the case of women, it was concerned with the establishment of a refined, modest look, which complied with the demands of society. To men, the 1860s were a period of masculine indulgence in the form of proper suits, waistcoats and top hats, which was not only dignified, but also elegant.
Fashion Textile Research and Development.
The 1860s were also marked by major developments in textile manufacturing especially the development of synthetic dyes. This featured an expanded variety of bright colors, earlier limited to natural coloring. Silk, wool, and cotton were dyed to bright colors, such as deep reds, greens and blues. These inventions have enabled fashionable clothes to be more affordable to the middle classes and colors started to become a crucial factor in the distinctions between social classes.
It was also during the decade that printed fabrics, including floral patterns, were introduced, and became a standard of womens clothing. These prints might be used often on day dresses and accessories to provide the otherwise structured look with some lightness and femininity. By the 1890s, fashion also saw the rise of the ‘Gibson Girl’ look, characterized by a more relaxed silhouette with softer, flowing fabrics, marking a shift from the previous rigid styles.
Accessories: Jewelry, Hats and Gloves.
In the 1860s accessories were a significant part of constructing a fashionable look, both in women and men. The wardrobes of women could not be complete without various accessories such as gloves, hats and jewelry. A glove was a very significant element of daily dress which was used by women of all classes. They were of leather, silk or lace, and were generally regarded as a sign of elegance and civilisation.
The other staple item of clothing that had to be available to women was their hats that were adorned with either feathers, ribbons or flowers. Fabulous bonnets and wide-brimmed hats were in fashion in the 1860s, often worn to suit the full skirts and crinolines. The hat was a necessity for men and indicated their status in society and their sophistication.
Another important aspect of the 1860s fashion was jewelry, especially the female version. It was the time of the appearance of more complicated and even nature-themed jewelry such as flowers, cameos, and lockets. They were worn in accessories of both men and women; jewels were praised as precious and were worn in the form of brooches, necklaces, and rings.
Fashion of the common people: Ready-to-Wear and Utility.
Although the upper classes dominated the fashion trend in the 1860s, the working and the middle classes started adopting fashionable clothes, albeit in a more practical manner. The ready-to-wear clothing industry began to emerge and they offered mass-produced garments to people who could not afford custom-made clothing.
Rustic women were working and therefore their dresses were less exquisite. However, in this classification, the action of the crinoline was observed, but in a less marked degree. Lower classes Men of the lower classes tended to be practical in their clothing, simpler and less decorative clothes being the usual order of things. The bourgeoisie, on the other hand, adopted the newest fashions, but on a smaller and cheaper scale.
The Impact of 1860s Fashion on Modern Styles
The fashion style of the 1860s might seem a long way away in relation to the modern fashions but its influence can still be observed in modern apparel. The formal suits that men put on in this period formed the basis of contemporary business suits. The shape of the corset was an hourglass shape that impacted the subsequent fashions, especially in the 1950s.
Fashion as a form of societal definition also evolved in the 1860s whereby not only were one’s clothes a reflection of their taste but also their social status and rank. This concept is still in force even today, and fashion is one of the most efficient tools of self-identification and position.
FAQ’s
Which fashion accessory was the best-selling item of the 1860s among women?
The crinoline was the most recognisable accessory worn by women in the 1860s. It was a broad and rich petticoat which sustained the bell-shaped skirts of the day.
What were the differences between fashion in the 1860s and 1860s amongst men and women?
The male fashion in the 1860s was founded on the custom-made suits, the waistcoats and top hats whereas the female fashion was founded on the large, oversized skirts with the large, corseted and, densely decorated with ornaments.
So what was so significant about the corset in the 1860s?
The corset played an important role in creating the perfect hourglass figure of a woman with a small waist and curvy figure, which was a sign of femininity and beauty at the time.
What role did Queen Victoria play in the fashion of the 1860s?
The choices of Queen Victoria towards modesty and elegance became a color of the time in the world of fashion, particularly, with respect to the dress of women, which became more systematic and sophisticated.
So what were the most important accessories of the 1860s?
Females were wearing gloves, hats and/or jewelry as important accessories, and top hats were the status symbol of the male gender. The two genders would accessorize their fashionable attire using accessories.
Conclusion
The 1860s were a revolution in fashion, which was characterized by the emergence of full skirts, custom suits and the significance of accessories. The period marked the foundation of modern fashion, which has shaped the way of fashion designing, as well as the place of fashion in society. The 1860s fashion was encompassing of the fine and elegant crinolines and corsets of the women, the fine tailoring of the men and this all has been a source of inspiration to this day as far as fashion is concerned.